In this memorable account of 17 trips he made to Hawaii's North Shore starting in 1974, Bruce Jenkins — considered the Kerouac of surf writing — profiles the area's elite.
The superstars who live to conquer Hawaii's deadliest waves.
Here are the egoists, stylists, gladiators, and purists of the sport, from big-wave greats Darrick Doerner and Mark Foo to bodysurfer Mark Cunningham and bodyboarder Mike Stewart.
Features 77 color photos.
stars based on 0